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Every
month we post one of the best questions, asked
on our Bulletin
Board, on our front page.
Listed
are our previous Questions & Answers.
Subjects:
Grisaille
Protecting your surface
Artist's Block
Wax Bloom
Fixatives
Protecting
your Digital Images
Copyright Infringement
Technique
More Intense Colors
Lightfastness
Colored pencil makes my wrists
ache
Watersoluable Pencils
Commission Contract
Paper for Beginners
Subject:
Grisaille
Question:
What is the Grisaille and how does it apply
to colored pencil
Answer:
Grisaille, pronounced greezeye, is also known
as Imprimatura and dates back to the 17th
century. It is a method whereby the artist
tints the drawing or painting surface before
beginning color work. If you use a tinted
surface you are already using a form of this
technique. Another way to apply this technique
would be to complete your drawing monochromatically,
tinting the drawing before adding your color.
Subject:
Protecting
your Surface
Question:
What are some ways to protect my drawing surface?
Answer:
Make sure you remove all jewelry as they can
easily scratch or indent your surface. Remove
nail polish to insure it doesn't rub off on
your drawing. Use a piece of paper to lean
your arm and hands to protect against smudging,
you could also use an arm rest. Use a large
brush to remove small slivers of color from
your pencils. Lastly, be aware of what is
around your drawing areas , especially if
you plan to leave your artwork, this can be
anything from a glass of water to the kids.
Subject:
Artist's
Block
Question:
What
ideas can you share for overcoming artist's
block?
Answer:
I
think almost all artists have experienced
"Artists Block" at one point or
another and just knowing that it is natural
your not alone can help. It seems that the
best thing to do is not to put any pressure
on yourself. Just sketching each day can help
bring you around. Try something different
- like a new subject, style or method. I think
it is also important to look around at what
other artists are doing, buy a new art book,
browse the online and local galleries, even
some of your own artwork. Something is sure
to strike inspiration in you.
Subject:
Wax Bloom
Question:
Presently I'm working with
Prismacolor artist's brand but I'm worried
about wax bloom. Will spraying the finished
portrait with a fixative stop wax bloom?
Answer:
Yes it will. It's
the only way to stop the blooming effect.
Be sure to test whatever brand of fixative
you have on a test piece (same colored pencils
- same paper). As with "fixing"
pastel work, your artwork may change in appearance.
Several light coats are much better than one
heavy coat. Have fun!
Written
by Adam
in response to a question on our bulletin
board asked by visitor Angela
Subject:
Fixatives
Question:
What fixatives are the best?
Are there any precautions I should take
when using them?
Answer:
There are lots of brands to choose
from, I have experimented with a few and found
that the cheaper ones "yellow" after
a while. Less popular brands may sit on a
shelf longer than they should, and have inconsistencies
when you apply them. Aerosols are easier to
use than liquids but have greater health concerns.
I prefer a "workable fix" which
allows some corrections or enhancements to
be made after it dries, if a light coat is
applied. Choose a quality brand, and
use a test piece before you apply it to a
finished work. Wear a mask if you choose,
but always spray in a well ventilated area.
Remember dust and hair can stick to the tacky
surface before it is dry.
Written
by Richard Tooley in response
to a question on our bulletin board asked
by visitor Lyn ~ thanks Richard!
Subject:
Protecting
your Digital Images
Question:
How can I protect my digital art from
online "art thieves"?
Answer:
There are several things you can do
to protect your art. One of the most
common ways is to add a watermark to the digital
image. If you are concerned with obstructing
your art you may choose to only add this mark
to your larger images and not your thumbnails.
Another way you can protect
your art on your web site is to add a Java
Script that does not allow
visitors to right-click on the page where
your art is displayed. This is not fool-proof
but will discourage most attempts. Be
aware though, that is may cause crashes on
some browsers.
The easiest way to aid
in protecting your images is to let your visitors
know that your art is copyrighted and that
it is illegal to copy from your site without
your permission.
Subject:
Copyright
Infringement
Question:
I would like to use a photograph found
in a book for reference but do not want to
infringe on the copyright of the image.
How can an artist tell if they have "crossed
the line" legally? How long does
a copyright last?
Answer:
This is a very common question among
artists. The test for copyright infringement
is whether an ordinary observer, looking at
the original work and the work allegedly copied
from it, recognizes that a copying has taken
place. The term of copyright
under the 1978 law is the artist's life plus
50 years.
Subject:
Technique
Question:
Being relatively new to using color
pencil, I wonder how folks feel about layering
(or is it still called glazing in CP art?).
To layer or not to layer, that is the question.
I tried layering and it was a complete disaster.
I couldn't get the colors I needed and the
colors I had smeared together. it turned out
with the right colors, but it lacks the "depth"
I see in layered work. It also leaves a lot
of paper tooth showing. How do you handle
this type of thing?
Darrin Dickey
Murfreesboro, TN
Answer:
I think layering is one useful technique,
but it is certainly not required. Typically,
it can be used to enhance the range of colors
available, and to make color areas more "gray"
by mixing. However, if you find that pure
colors are the best approximation of what
you're trying to do in a given area, there's
nothing wrong with that.
In my experience, the best approaches for
getting rid of visible paper tooth are:
1) use a solvent, such as turpenoid, rubber
cement thinner, etc. to dissolve the colored
pencil into a wash which can be spread around.
2) burnish with a white or colorless colored
pencil to smooth out the areas.
3) to add to what Peter has suggested to reduce
paper show-through, I've found that softly
going over an area with a facial tissue will
deposit some of the cp "dust" into
the valleys of the paper tooth, slightly blending
the difference between your colored area and
the paper.
4) A colored or toned paper might help pull
your palette together, too.
Peter
Davis www.pfdstudio.com &
Nancy
Barnet www.jps.net/nbarnetart
Subject:
More Intense
Colors
Question:
I just love working on toned paper.
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas
for getting intense, saturated colors on toned
paper? - Peter Davis www.pfdstudio.com
Answer:
I often lay down some white or other
light, creamy pencil before applying the colors
I had planned to work in. The lighter, more
opaque color helps to blocks out some of the
color of the paper. I also plan out all of
my color mixes on a scrap piece of the same
colored paper, realizing that the color of
the paper will become a part of my mix, choosing
colors that will give me the most vibrant
end result. Hope this helps. My problem with
colored paper is that I sometimes run out
of paper (tooth) before I'm done.
Anita - Posted in
the Colored
Pencil eGroup
Subject:
Lightfastness
Question:
I keep hearing about lightfastness.
Can someone help me to understand what
this is and what it means to me as a colored
pencil artist? Thanks! Jacklyn
Answers:
Lightfastness is the ability of a color
pigment to stay true to its color over a period
of time, while exposed to light. A good quality
of a color pigment will remain true to its
hue for years. Molly
Subject:
Colored
pencil makes my wrists ache
Question:
I love colored pencil!! But lately
I have discovered my right wrist aches so
much after putting in large dark areas that
I can't work for a week. My last piece was
15" x 19" with 1/3 almost solid
dark. Does anyone else have this problem?
I would surely ppreciate comment by other
artists. Sincerely, Marie
Wise
Answers:
Have you tried art sticks? They can
really save some time. You can also use them
with a solvent for your base coat. Anita
I have had to take breaks from it for hours
or sometimes wait until the next day, especially
when filling in darks areas. I sometimes
think the solution is to 'just not press as
hard,' but then to fill in the area like I
want will take all that much longer. Lainie
(these
are only partial answers)
Response:
Thanks for the replies.
I took a workshop from Ann Kullberg this weekend.
It was wonderful. She said it helps to work
on a slanted drawing table (never a flat one),
and to keep all the pencil movement in the
fingers, not the wrist. I tried it and it
takes concentration for me, but with practice
may improve. The slanted drawing surface DEFINITELY
makes things easier on my ands, arms and BACK!
I can't believe I couldn't figure that out
before! Marie
Wise
Subject:
Watersoluble
Pencils
Question:
Does anyone out there use watercolor
pencils? Seems like most everyone and
most all of the books (except for Gary Greene's
new book) dwells solely on the traditional
colored pencils. I would love to know
who uses the watersoluble pencils and how
they integrate them into their works.
Kate
Answer:
I started using
watercolor pencils last October and I LOVE
them! I also got the book you mentioned
- I would suggest the book. It
goes into great detail about the various techniques
you could use. Although I will always
love Colored pencils and continue to do colored
pencil work, sometimes I get frustrated at
what a slow-working medium it is - I find
the more I work with Watercolor Pencils, the
quicker my techniques are getting and yet
results I
still like. I hope to be able to generate
a bit more work with using both watercolor
and colored pencil. Good luck and enjoy watercolor
pencils. LainieSmith
Subject:
Commission
Contract
Question:
I am trying to develop
a contract for my comission work. What
do I need to make sure is included? I
want it to cover all the bases for my protection
as well as my client.
Answer:
I am a portrait
artist and after getting burned many times
I finally learned my lesson and decided to
draw up a contract for commissions on my art.
I couldn't afford to hire a lawyer to
draw up the contract so I started researching
and came across a wonderful book called "Legal
Guide for the Visual Artist - the Professional's
Handbook by TAD CRAWFORD. This book
contains many contracts, copywrite and many
other legal papers. They are kind of
a "fill in the blank" forms so that
you can make copies and use them. It
also contains tons of information on sales
licensing, taxes, organizations and a lot
more! You think I had stock in this
book but I cannot tell you how many times
I have grabbed for this book, it's just a
must-have for an artist. Another
good book made or Published by the same publisher
is; "Business and Legal Forms For Fine
Artist's" and also authored by, Tad Crawford
as well. - (thanks Jerry)
One last note - I thought that it would feel
impersonal to give my clients a contract to
sign but actually it makes them feel protected
and you look more professional. Good Luck,
Sally

"Legal Guide for the Visual Artist"
&
"Business
and Legal Forms for Fine Artists"
Subject:
Paper for
Beginners
Question:
I am just beginning colored pencil drawing
with a set of Prismacolor. I have several
colored pencil books, but neither recommends
particular brands of paper. I would
appreciate some specific recommendations on
some reasonably priced papers that would be
appropriate for the aspiring colored pencil
student.
Answer:
Beinfang or Strathmore
drawing Bristol with a regular finish is good
to start with. Make sure you don't get
the plate or smooth finish, you need a little
tooth to the paper. The colored pastel
papers are nice to try also and you can usually
find an assortment in a pad.
Written
by Anita in
response to a question on our bulletin board
asked by visitor Donald

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